Fashion and gender have always been intertwined. Because many people read clothing and presentation as a key indicator of gender, dressing in certain ways can be a great way to affirm your gender. Gender-affirming fashion can be achieved through attention to a variety of factors, such as:
- Clothes
- Hair & makeup
- Gender-affirming tools (chicken cutlets, binders, etc)
We’ll go over each of these today. Note that while we use the terms “masculine” “feminine” and “androgynous” to describe certain types of presentation, these don’t have to equate to being a man, woman, or non-binary – gender non-conformity, such as wearing masculine fashion while identifying as a woman, is still a way to affirm your gender. Rather than worry about people finding your presentation to be incongruent with how they perceive your gender, focus on finding what makes you feel most comfortable in your own skin.
We’d also like to note that gender euphoria is the goal here – you don’t have to be gender dysphoric to try a new kind of presentation. Even if you’re content presenting one way, you may find that presenting another way actively makes you happier. Find what works best for you.
Styling Your Clothes
Find The Perfect Combination For You
Clothes, of course, are often the go-to for people when it comes to identifying gender. There’s a lot to consider when evaluating your wardrobe, such as:
“Gender” and Sizing
Most likely, you’ve seen clothes advertised with men’s and women’s sizing – for items like pants, the difference is a little more obvious. When it comes to shirts, it can be a little harder to tell, but there is a difference between them. Women’s shirts are generally tapered, and meant to cling to your bust and waist. Meanwhile, men’s shirts tend to hang more straight, meaning those parts of your body are deemphasized. For that reason, even though the shirt is basically the same, the choice between men’s sizing or women’s sizing can affect how you look to a surprising degree.
Shorter or taller than average? Not a problem!
Sometimes it can be a challenge to find clothing that fits you – as a 5’3 man, for example, I find it difficult to find men’s pants where the cuffs aren’t too long (especially since I’m a little rotund, and they don’t make a lot of clothes for short fat guys). However, that doesn’t mean the clothes you want have to stay out of reach. Shops like U510 and Long Tall Sally are great if you need masculine or feminine wear that isn’t as commonly made in your size.
Long, flowy clothing
If you’re looking for a more feminine appearance, long, flowy clothing is great for affirming that side of yourself. It’s also just fun to wear – in fact, it’s a trend amongst trans women to record themselves spinning in skirts for the first time, as seen in a Tiktok by saint.josie:
Shape
The general shape of your clothes can also affect how your presentation is perceived – some people can feel dysphoric over their shoulders, waists, or hips, so it can be helpful to look for clothes that deemphasize the traits you dislike while emphasizing the ones you do like. For example, if you dislike how broad your shoulders are, wearing high-waisted skirts or dresses can emphasize your waist, putting your waist more in line with your shoulders and potentially giving you more of an “hourglass” figure.
Glasses
Glasses as an accessory can help fine-tune your presentation. The shape of your glasses can actually really affect how your face looks – round frames tend to give a more feminine appearance, while more square frames give a masculine appearance. If you wear prescription glasses, or even just keep a pair of sunglasses by your side, this can be a great way to subtly nudge your presentation one way or another.
Hair & Makeup
Subtle, But Important
Often, short hair is associated with the masculine, and long hair with the feminine – however, there are ways to alter both to suit your needs. For example, if you have long hair, you can still achieve a more masculine look by tying it back in a ponytail or braid, accentuating your jawline. Many mens’ hairstyles also have the hair swept back from the face and forehead, rather than having side bangs.
Short hair can also be styled in different ways, according to your needs. Feminine cuts often are made up of round or triangular shapes, while square shapes tend to give a more masculine appearance, similar to how glasses shapes work, as mentioned earlier.
Makeup is also an incredibly interesting tool for gender affirmation – while it’s currently associated with femininity, it was historically often used by men. And in fact, it’s often still used by men today, primarily in Hollywood. Used with a deft touch, makeup can be a way to subtly look more masculine, with tactics such as contouring and filling in your brows, or even giving the appearance of facial hair. Of course, if you’re interested in doing drag, makeup can be a great way to really exaggerate certain features. It’s up to you how loud or how quiet you go.
Gender-Affirming Tools
Cutlets, Binders, Tucking, Oh My!
A key part of gender affirmation can be addressing sex characteristics, such as the chest and private region. If you desire a flatter chest, chest binding is a great solution. Whether you’re wearing it in your everyday life or using it for something like cosplay, a binder is a fantastic tool to have in your arsenal. Just make sure to make breaks from your binder, and buy a binder specifically made for the task – you shouldn’t use duct tape or Ace bandages, as those aren’t designed for chest compression, and can easily hurt you. Remember that a binder won’t make your chest perfectly flat, but don’t worry if you don’t look very flat just wearing the binder. Often, you’ll see the effects best once you’re wearing a shirt over it.
On the flip side, if you want the appearance of a larger chest, chicken cutlet inserts are a great way to discreetly pad your chest, while still looking natural. These can be worn everyday, but are also great for outfits made for people with larger busts, as those outfits may sit oddly on someone with a smaller bust. Just make sure to keep the chicken cutlet inserts clean when not in use, and stored somewhere dry and away from sunlight.
When it comes to your private region, having a bulge may add or detract from your desired presentation – if you have an unwanted bulge, you can try tucking. The only real risk here is skin irritation. If you find you’re experiencing skin irritation with tucking tape, try trimming or shaving the groin area beforehand. If you lack a bulge or want a larger one, packing is a great way to achieve this (you don’t even have to buy anything new – you can test the waters with something as simple as a rolled-up pair of socks!).
At the end of the day, remember that this is all for you – you can take or leave any advice that you’d like, and if you’re aiming for a more androgynous appearance, feel free to mix and match any of these ideas. Your gender is wholly your own, but we hope we’ve given you some great ideas for how to affirm your gender through fashion!
